Research progress in sample pretreatment and analytical techniques for cosmetics

doi:10.3724/SP.J.1123.2019.06031

Abstract

Abstract:

With the continuous economic development and improvement of living standards, cosmetic products are being widely used as daily consumer products, and there are increasing concerns about their safety. Consequently, there is a substantial increase in the number of cosmetic samples subjected to various analyses, and this in turn necessitates more stringent requirements for the related analytical techniques. However, traditional sample pretreatment and analytical techniques are time-consuming, require large amounts of organic solvents, and have low throughput, thus failing to meet the current demand for green analytical chemistry. To address this issue, researchers have developed numerous environmentally friendly pretreatment techniques as well as high-throughput and rapid on-site methods to ensure the quality and safety of cosmetics. This paper reviews the current progress in sample pretreatment and analytical techniques for cosmetics and discusses the trends and prospects, which may provide technical guidance for researchers and inspectors in the analysis of cosmetic products.

Key words: sample pretreatment, analytical techniques, cosmetics, review

GUO Xiangyu, CHEN Meng, MENG Xianshuang, Lü Yueguang, ZHANG Nan, LIAN Xianhui, WANG Chun, GAO Haiyan, MA Qiang. Research progress in sample pretreatment and analytical techniques for cosmetics[J]. Chinese Journal of Chromatography, 2020, 38(2): 151-161.

Figures/Tables 6

References

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Category	Compounds	Recoveries/%	RSDs/%	Reference
Preservative	13 preservatives, such as 5-bromo-5-nitro-1, 3-dioxane, bronopol, methyl-p-hydroxybenzoate, and tert-butyl-p-hydroxy anisole	88-110	＜10	[12]
Plasticizer and synthetic musk	18 plasticizers, such as dimethyl phthalate, diethyl phthalate, diisobutyl phthalate, and dibutyl phthalate; 12 synthetic musk, such as traseolide, musk xylene, tonalide, and musk moskene	85-105	＜8	[13]
Spice allergen	25 spice allergens, such as limonene, benzyl alcohol, linalool, methyl 2-octynic acid ester, and citronellol	＞75	＜10	[14]
Preservative	methyl isothiazolinone, methyl chloroisothiazolinone, benzoisothiazolinone, and octyl isothiazolinone	＞80	＜7	[15]
Spice allergen, preservative, plasticizer and musk	26 spice allergens, such as α-pinene, limonene, benzyl alcohol, linalool, and methyl 2-octynic acid ester; 13 preservatives, such as 5-bromo-5-nitro-1, 3-dioxane, phenoxyethanol, and methyl p-hydroxybenzoate; 15 plasticizers, such as dimethyl phthalate, diethyl phthalate, diisobutyl phthalate, and dibutyl phthalate; 12 musks, such as musk ambrette, traseolide, galaxolide, and musk xylene	80-110	＜15	[16]
Spice allergen and preservative	25 spice allergens, such as limonene, benzyl alcohol, linalool, and methyl 2-octynic acid ester; 13 preservatives, such as phenoxyethanol, methyl p-hydroxybenzoate, butylated hydroxyanisole, and dibutyl hydroxytoluene	＞90	＜10	[17]
Dyestuff	9 dyestuffs, such as ponceaux SX, acid orange 7, sunset yellow FCF, and allura red AC	70-120	＜15	[18]
Preservative	11 preservatives, such as methyl benzoate, ethyl benzoate, butyl benzoate, phenyl benzoate, and triclosan	＞92 (methyl benzoate 50, ethyl benzoate 70)	＜8	[19]
Dyestuff	19 dyestuffs, such as acid yellow 36, ponceaux SX, acid red 14, and acid orange 7	69.5-121	1.1-15	[20]
Colorant	63 colorants, such as acid blue 1, acid blue 7, acid green 3, and acid green 9	64-128.4	0.9-10.1	[21]

Category	Compounds	Recoveries/%	RSDs/%	Reference
Preservative	13 preservatives, such as 5-bromo-5-nitro-1, 3-dioxane, bronopol, methyl-p-hydroxybenzoate, and tert-butyl-p-hydroxy anisole	88-110	＜10	[12]
Plasticizer and synthetic musk	18 plasticizers, such as dimethyl phthalate, diethyl phthalate, diisobutyl phthalate, and dibutyl phthalate; 12 synthetic musk, such as traseolide, musk xylene, tonalide, and musk moskene	85-105	＜8	[13]
Spice allergen	25 spice allergens, such as limonene, benzyl alcohol, linalool, methyl 2-octynic acid ester, and citronellol	＞75	＜10	[14]
Preservative	methyl isothiazolinone, methyl chloroisothiazolinone, benzoisothiazolinone, and octyl isothiazolinone	＞80	＜7	[15]
Spice allergen, preservative, plasticizer and musk	26 spice allergens, such as α-pinene, limonene, benzyl alcohol, linalool, and methyl 2-octynic acid ester; 13 preservatives, such as 5-bromo-5-nitro-1, 3-dioxane, phenoxyethanol, and methyl p-hydroxybenzoate; 15 plasticizers, such as dimethyl phthalate, diethyl phthalate, diisobutyl phthalate, and dibutyl phthalate; 12 musks, such as musk ambrette, traseolide, galaxolide, and musk xylene	80-110	＜15	[16]
Spice allergen and preservative	25 spice allergens, such as limonene, benzyl alcohol, linalool, and methyl 2-octynic acid ester; 13 preservatives, such as phenoxyethanol, methyl p-hydroxybenzoate, butylated hydroxyanisole, and dibutyl hydroxytoluene	＞90	＜10	[17]
Dyestuff	9 dyestuffs, such as ponceaux SX, acid orange 7, sunset yellow FCF, and allura red AC	70-120	＜15	[18]
Preservative	11 preservatives, such as methyl benzoate, ethyl benzoate, butyl benzoate, phenyl benzoate, and triclosan	＞92 (methyl benzoate 50, ethyl benzoate 70)	＜8	[19]
Dyestuff	19 dyestuffs, such as acid yellow 36, ponceaux SX, acid red 14, and acid orange 7	69.5-121	1.1-15	[20]
Colorant	63 colorants, such as acid blue 1, acid blue 7, acid green 3, and acid green 9	64-128.4	0.9-10.1	[21]

Category	Compounds	Extraction solvent	Dispersing solvent	Recoveries/%	RSDs/%	Reference
[C₆MIM][PF₆]: 1-hexyl-3-methylimidazolium hexafluorophosphate; ACN-Tr-114: acetonitrile-Triton X-114; -: not mentioned.
Preservative	methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, sorbic acid, benzoic acid, and salicylic acid	trichloromethane	isopropyl alcohol	71.1-112.6	-	[38]
Paraben	methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, isobutylparaben, and isoamylparaben	n-octanol	water	93.5-104.3	＜4.8	[39]
Colorant	rhodamine B and rhodamine 6G	1-octanol	acetone	90.3-94.7	＜5	[40]
Colorant	acid yellow 23, acid blue 74, acid red 18, acid yellow 1, sunset yellow FCF, allura red, brilliant blue FCF, basic red 51, orange I, acid red 87, acid red 51, metanil yellow, acid orange 3, and acid violet 43	tetrahydrofuran	ethanol-water (95:5, v/v)	90.2-106.1	0.30-3.1	[41]
Metal ion	mercury	[C₆MIM][PF₆]	methanol	86.7-101.2	-	[42]
Natural compound	atranol and chloroatranol	chloroform	acetone	79-106	9	[43]
Vitamin	vitamin E	carbon tetrachloride	acetonitrile	87-105	＜7.8	[44]
Paraben	methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, isobutylparaben, butylparaben, and isoamylparaben	chloroform	tetrahydrofuran	81.0-103	＜8.2	[45]
Phthalate ester	benzyl butyl phthalate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) phthalate, di-n-butyl phthalate, diethyl phthalate, dimethyl phthalate, and di-n-octyl phthalate	carbon tetrachloride	acetonitrile	84-124	＜10	[46]
Metal ion	nickel	chloroform	ethanol	97-99	1.2	[47]
Organic solvent	formaldehyde	water	acetonitrile	91-113	＜9.2	[48]
Caine-type prohibited ingredient	tricaine, benzocaine, procaine, risocaine, chloroprocaine, lidocaine, tetracaine, amylocaine, pramocaine, and butacaine	n-dodecyl alcohol	tetrahydrofuran	70.7-94.7	1.2-12.7	[49]
UV filter	benzophenone, 4-hydroxybenzophenone, 2, 4-dihydroxybenzophenone, and 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone	[C₆MIM][PF₆]	ACN-Tr-114	80.2-117.7	2.8-10.6	[50]
Pesticide residue	hexachlorophene	[C₆MIM][PF₆]	methanol	74.5-97.7	3.8-6.7	[51]

Category	Compounds	Extraction solvent	Dispersing solvent	Recoveries/%	RSDs/%	Reference
[C₆MIM][PF₆]: 1-hexyl-3-methylimidazolium hexafluorophosphate; ACN-Tr-114: acetonitrile-Triton X-114; -: not mentioned.
Preservative	methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, sorbic acid, benzoic acid, and salicylic acid	trichloromethane	isopropyl alcohol	71.1-112.6	-	[38]
Paraben	methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, isobutylparaben, and isoamylparaben	n-octanol	water	93.5-104.3	＜4.8	[39]
Colorant	rhodamine B and rhodamine 6G	1-octanol	acetone	90.3-94.7	＜5	[40]
Colorant	acid yellow 23, acid blue 74, acid red 18, acid yellow 1, sunset yellow FCF, allura red, brilliant blue FCF, basic red 51, orange I, acid red 87, acid red 51, metanil yellow, acid orange 3, and acid violet 43	tetrahydrofuran	ethanol-water (95:5, v/v)	90.2-106.1	0.30-3.1	[41]
Metal ion	mercury	[C₆MIM][PF₆]	methanol	86.7-101.2	-	[42]
Natural compound	atranol and chloroatranol	chloroform	acetone	79-106	9	[43]
Vitamin	vitamin E	carbon tetrachloride	acetonitrile	87-105	＜7.8	[44]
Paraben	methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, isobutylparaben, butylparaben, and isoamylparaben	chloroform	tetrahydrofuran	81.0-103	＜8.2	[45]
Phthalate ester	benzyl butyl phthalate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) phthalate, di-n-butyl phthalate, diethyl phthalate, dimethyl phthalate, and di-n-octyl phthalate	carbon tetrachloride	acetonitrile	84-124	＜10	[46]
Metal ion	nickel	chloroform	ethanol	97-99	1.2	[47]
Organic solvent	formaldehyde	water	acetonitrile	91-113	＜9.2	[48]
Caine-type prohibited ingredient	tricaine, benzocaine, procaine, risocaine, chloroprocaine, lidocaine, tetracaine, amylocaine, pramocaine, and butacaine	n-dodecyl alcohol	tetrahydrofuran	70.7-94.7	1.2-12.7	[49]
UV filter	benzophenone, 4-hydroxybenzophenone, 2, 4-dihydroxybenzophenone, and 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone	[C₆MIM][PF₆]	ACN-Tr-114	80.2-117.7	2.8-10.6	[50]
Pesticide residue	hexachlorophene	[C₆MIM][PF₆]	methanol	74.5-97.7	3.8-6.7	[51]

Category	Compounds	Extraction method	Reference
Preservative	methyl benzoate, ethyl benzoate, butyl benzoate, phenyl benzoate, methyl 4-hydroxybenzoate, ethyl 4-hydroxybenzoate, butyl paraben, benzyl 4-hydroxybenzoate, triclosan, 2, 6-di-tert-butyl-4-methylphenol, and butylated hydroxyanisole	direct solid phase microextraction	[19]
Antioxidant and preservative	butylated hydroxyanisole, butylated hydroxytoluene, methylparaben, ethylparaben, iso-propylparaben, and iso-butylparaben	headspace solid phase microextraction	[64]
Biomarker volatile	3-methyl-1-butanol, 2-heptanone, 2-nonanone, 1-undecene, 2-phenylethanol, 1-nonanol, 1-decanol, 2-undecanone, indole, 2-undecanol, undecanal, 1-undecanol, 3-dodecanone, 1-dodecanol, 2-tridecanone, 2-tridecyl alcohol, tridecanal, tridecyl alcohol, myristic aldehyde, tetradecanol, 2-pentadecanone, and 1-pentadecanol	headspace solid phase microextraction	[65]
Organic reagent	methanol	headspace solid phase microextraction	[66]
Organic reagent	carbon tetrachloride	headspace solid phase microextraction	[67]
Organic reagent	formaldehyde	headspace solid phase microextraction	[68]