Abstract:

Plant components from extracts of Sophora flavescens, rhodiola, ginseng, Centella asiatica, and tea play important roles in skin whitening, moisturizing, anti-aging, sun protection, anti-inflammation, antiseptic, bacteriostatic, and other effects of cosmetics. At present, no relevant standard methods have been established to detect the addition amounts of plant extracts in cosmetics. In addition, plant extracts listed in product labels may be undetectable due to their addition in trace quantities and the lack of technical support. Therefore, a quantitative method for the simultaneous determination of 22 functional components in cosmetics was established by ultra-high performance liquid chromatography-linear ion trap/orbitrap high resolution mass spectrometry (UHPLC-LTQ/Orbitrap MS). Target compounds were extracted with methanol from samples using ultrasonic extraction, and then separated on a C18 column (100 mm × 2.1 mm, 1.8 μm) with gradient elution of 0.1% (v/v) formic acid aqueous solution (A) and acetonitrile (B). The gradient elution program were as follows: 0-5 min, 5%B-8%B; 5-25 min, 8%B-60%B; 25-35 min, 60%B-80%B; 35-36 min, 80%B-5%B; 36-45 min, 5%B. The flow rate was 0.3 mL/min and the injection volume was 5 μL. Accurate masses of precursor ions were used to detect cosmetic functional components in positive ionization mode. The fragment ions obtained by higher energy collisional dissociation were used for confirmation of the functional components. Each compound showed good linearity. The limits of detection (LODs) were in the range of 0.003-2.01 mg/kg, and the limits of quantification (LOQs) were in the range of 0.02-4.36 mg/kg. Recoveries at three levels were 63.2%-125.1%, and relative standard deviations (RSDs) were 0.18%-10.9%. Fifty-four batches of samples labeled with four monomer functional components and nine plant extracts were tested. In the 17 batches of samples labeled with nicotinamide, 4 batches labeled with caffeine, and 6 batches labeled with Sophora flavescens root extract, the labeled functional components were detected. One out of 11 batches of samples labeled with D-panthenol was not detected. Three of the seven batches of samples labeled with ascorbyl glucoside were not detected. In the 21 batches of samples labeled with licorice extracts, the corresponding functional components were not detected in 9 batches. In the 21 batches of samples labeled with Centella asiatica extract, the corresponding functional components were not detected in 11 batches. In the 13 batches of samples labeled with tea extract, the corresponding functional components were not detected in 8 batches. In 11 of the 12 batches containing ginseng root extract, the corresponding functional components were not detected. In five of the six batches of astragalus membranaceus root extract samples, the corresponding functional components were not detected. In samples labeled with Polygonum cuspidatum root extract, Rehmannia glutinosa root extract, and Ophiopogon japonicus root extract, the corresponding functional components were detected. The method is simple, rapid, reliable, accurate, and suitable for the determination of the 22 functional components in cosmetics.

Key words: ultra-high performance liquid chromatography (UHPLC), linear ion trap/orbitrap high resolution mass spectrometry (LTQ/Orbitrap MS), functional components, cosmetics